About Konbu
Vital to Osaka
Konbu (kelp) is an important ingredient that makes the flavors of Osaka so special. A total of 120,000 tons is produced every year within the country. 95% of that amount is gathered along the coastal lines of Hokkaido. In Japan there are 14 genus and 45 different species of Konbu. The popular kinds sent to Kansai are Ma-konbu, Rishiri-konbu and Raus-konbu.
In Osaka, konbu is mainly used for soup stock, Shio-konbu (konbu cooked with soy sauce and other ingredients) and Tororo-konbu (tangle flakes). Among the variety of konbu Ma-konbu which is considered the "King of Konbu" is most popular. It is said that 90% of Ma-konbu gathered in Hokkaido is sent and used in Osaka. Ma-konbu is gathered in southern Hokkaido along the cities of Hakodate to Muroran. It is brown and about 12 to 30 cm wide and 1.5 to 3 meters long. Compared to other konbu, it is rather thick and makes a clear, light yellow soup stock. From high-class Japanese style restaurants to Udon shops, Ma-konbu is much favored. Not only for soup stock but the thick Ma-konbu is fit for making flakes such as Tororo-konbu or Oboro-konbu as well as being cooked as Shio-konbu.
By the way, Rishiri-konbu is gathered at the northern tip of Hokkaido along the coastal line of the Okhotsk Sea from Rishiri-Rebun Island to Abashiri. It is smaller compared to Ma-konbu, but has a strong salty taste and makes soup stock with strong aroma. The soup is clear and has no color to it, so it is especially preferred by those who make Kyou-ryouri (Kyoto style dishes) and Senmaizuke (thin slices of pickled kraut). And konbu that is gathered in eastern Hokkaido along the Shiretoko Peninsula is called Raus-konbu. It makes a yellowish soup that has a strong taste. The soup stock is used as a base and other ingredients are added to cook a dish.
People can choose from different types of konbu to fit whatever dish they are planning to cook.
The history of Konbu
In Japan, konbu is only gathered in Hokkaido and Touhoku. Long ago, konbu was gathered in Hokkaido and shipped all over the country using a water route called "Konbu Road". After the Edo period (1603 - 1867), konbu became an important factor for the Osaka flavor. Let's take a moment here to learn about its history.
It is said that 2200 years ago, the first Qin Emperor gave orders to go and get a medicine for immortality from the country in the east; this was konbu. The first time konbu appears in Japanese reference is the "Engi-shiki" written in the Heian period (794 -1185). It states rules of how to handle products and rituals. According to the "Engi-shiki", konbu is an article for presentation to the Imperial court or offering to God.
During the Kamakura period (1185 - 1333), the Kitamae-bune sea route was established, connecting Ezochi (Hokkaido) and Hokuriku. From the Hokuriku area the konbu crossed the Biwa-ko Lake and was brought to Kyoto. In a Kyougen play (traditional short comic play) titled "Konbu Uri (konbu seller)" a man who sells konbu on foot appears. That's how we now know that konbu was sold in Kyoto too. Another fact is that the konbu sold in those days were a wide type konbu called Ma-konbu.
From long ago, konbu was considered something for good luck and was called "Hirome" or "Ebisu-me". Even now, it is used for decoration at unveiling ceremonies or weddings. Samurais sent Noshi-awabi (thin, long strip of dried abalone), Kachi-guri (dried chestnuts) and konbu because when the three are put together in Japanese, the words sound like "To shoot, defeat the enemy and be happy about it". Konbu was also handy to carry along during battles because after it is dried, it is light to carry, can be preserved for a period of time and ready to eat. The thick Ma-konbu would be shredded to make tangle flakes such as Tororo-konbu or Oboro-konbu in the Hokuriku area and gradually made its way through to Kyoto. Later, the famous knifes of Sakai would come in handy to shred the konbu, which eventually made konbu an important production in Osaka as well.
In the Edo period (1603 - 1867) the Kitamae-bune sea route was extended, going around Shimonoseki and the Seto Inland Sea all the way to Osaka. The Shogunate gave orders to gather goods in Osaka through this route and the products would be sold all over the country by Osaka merchants. That is how Osaka became the hub and was called "Tenka no Daidokoro (the country's kitchen)". Large quantities of konbu shipped from Hokkaido travel along the Ookawa to destinations in Osaka. Such as Sugawara-cho, the Tenmangu area, Utsubo-koen Park where seafood is gathered at Eitai-hama and around Horie too. Many konbu related wholesalers and brokers gathered around the Horie area and around Honmachi and Doutonbori where many konbu processing shops were opened. Shio-konbu was born in Osaka because it was one of the first places to use soy sauce for cooking. Shio-konbu became popular among the general public and that's how people realized what konbu is. Osaka has been the largest market of konbu ever since the Edo period. The long history explains the deep connection between konbu and the flavor of Osaka.
*Take a break - O-zouni, the Osaka way
O-zouni is a kind of miso soup which is served especially during the New Year's ceremony. Basically it has a few different vegetables and mochi in it, but there is a difference in what kind of miso to use, what the shape of the mochi should be and how it should be cooked and what other vegetables are cooked in the soup. It depends on which region's tradition you choose to follow. Although each household may have their own recipe even within Osaka, generally, konbu is used for soup stock. Pre-cooked daikon radish, carrots, aroid and tofu are cooked in the soup stock and last, the shiro-miso is added. And just before it is served, a soft, round mochi is added and there you have an Osaka style O-zouni! The taste is light and simple and it has a nice soft aroma. Let's take a look at each ingredient and why it is used. We use a small daikon radish which is about 3cm in diameter, Kintoki-ninjin which is a red carrot that is sold in markets just before New Year's. The daikon radish, Kintoki-ninjin and aroid must be cut in round slices, and the mochi must be round also. This is because we hope for a 'well-rounded' household through out the New Year. And the reason why we use only konbu for the soup stock is because we do not want to eat anything that is tortured and killed on the morning of New Year's Day. It is also considered not a favorable thing to use cutting tools on New Year's Day, so we prepare all the ingredients on New Year's Eve. Konbu is also called 'kobu' which rhymes with 'yorokobu (rejoice)'. So the whole family gathers at the table and wish for a 'well-rounded' household enjoying a 'yorokobu' soup.
Konbu - essential for the Osaka flavor
Ever since the Edo period (1603 - 1867) besides being used for soup stock, konbu has been appreciated by the people of Osaka as prepared food such as Shio-konbu, Tororo-konbu (tangle flakes) and Oboro-konbu.
Shio means 'salt'. So when you imagine what Shio-konbu would taste like, you may think it is salty. But actually it is slowly cooked with soy sauce, sugar and other ingredients. As it is cooked slowly, the dried konbu absorbs the liquid and eventually becomes soft. So it needs to be cooked with just the right amount of soup including soy sauce and sugar. You'll know when it is cooked enough because all the liquid in the pan would be absorbed and gone. The flavor of the konbu and the thick layer of salty-sweetness are a great combination; there you have your "Shio-konbu". Take a bite and enjoy the luxurious taste as your teeth soak into the soft and thick konbu. As mentioned 'just the right amount of ingredients' is an important factor. If too much is added, it will turn out to be too soft, and not enough will make the konbu hard. You need skill to figure out the right temperature, the amount of soy sauce and sugar and how to cook it slowly without burning it. The shops in Osaka have a long history of experience and their original methods.
How do you make "Tororo-konbu" or "Oboro-konbu"? First you pickle the konbu to make it soft. Then you use a special kind of knife to shred the konbu. It is called 'tororo' because it expresses the thickness it has when added to soup-like dishes or it expresses how it tenderly melts in the dish when it is called 'oboro'. Although konbu is fit for preservation, if it is not handled properly or not dried enough, sometimes it turned moldy during its long trip. People came up with a solution to scrap off the mold or pickle it for even longer preservation which was the beginning of "Tororo-konbu" and "Oboro-konbu". Long ago, the konbu was hand shredded into strips that were as thin as 0.01 millimeters. Only skilled craftsmen were able to do the job. After checking if the konbu was pickled enough, one would step on the edge of the konbu with his right foot, draw up his left knee and pull the konbu to straighten it on his left knee. Like a tree, the fiber of konbu runs lengthwise. So the craftsmen would use a knife with his right hand and shred the konbu along the fiber of the konbu. At the very end of the procedure, a white, sheet-like core will remain. This is again, pickled and used for decorating the O-kagami-mochi (rice cake offered to God on New Year's Day) or placed over the Battera-zushi and called "Shiro-ita".
*Take a break - Knives made in Sakai
The reason why the production of Tororo-konbu and Oboro-konbu widely spread in Osaka is because of the high-quality knives made in Sakai. As tobacco was imported from Portugal and became popular in Japan, the Edo Shogunate ordered the blacksmiths in Sakai to make a special knife to cut the tobacco leafs. Sakai was already famous for having high-skilled blacksmiths who were experienced in making guns and swords, so it was an easy task. As a tranquil mood filled the atmosphere and changes in the food culture appeared, the blacksmiths made tools that made cooking easier. It is said that nowadays, 90% of knives used by chefs in the country are made in Sakai. No wonder they have a wide variety of knives that covers Japanese, western and Chinese style foods.
