Merchant's 'ways'
The spirit of Osaka
"Shimatsu"
"Chiri-tote-chin" a famous Kamigata rakugo story starts off by a conversation of two people greeting each other. One of them didn't want to drink alone on his birthday, so he invites a nice man who lives nearby, Kiroku, to have a drink with him. A dish that appears in this scene is "Sea-bream sashimi". Kiroku goes on and on, praising the dish and repeating the words "this is so delicious" as he eats it.
When sea-bream is in season, a large amount can be fished in nearby waters of Osaka so they become rather cheap. The pinkish color is considered appropriate for celebrations and that is why it is especially chosen to be served on special occasions. Sea-breams appear in rakugo, plays and Bunraku puppet shows which also prove that it was enjoyed by the general public. The white meat that is sweet and light makes it easy to be enjoyable by many people.
Okay, let's say you get a sea-bream. What do you do? First slice off one side of the fish meat and enjoy it as sashimi. Turn it over, sprinkle a dash of salt over it then broil. The bones and head that remain can be used for Shio-jiru (soup). There are many recipes for each part of the sea-bream because it was considered a tradition to enjoy the whole fish without wasting any part of it.
Traditionally, "shimatsu" has been an important concept among the merchants. It means to appreciate food and not to waste any part of it.
A typical home that runs a business eats Ochazuke (green tea poured over rice) or Okayu (rice porridge) using leftover rice from the previous night for breakfast. For lunch, they prepare a dish and miso soup to eat with rice that has just been cooked. And for dinner, they eat the leftover rice from lunch as Ochazuke. It may surprise you because there is nothing fancy to their daily meals. But on special occasions like seasonal festivals, matsuri or monthly events, they would prepare a big feast.
The spirit of Osaka
The development of Kappou
One reason why dinner would be simple for a merchant's household is said to be because the men had business dinners so they wouldn't eat at home. What would a typical business dinner be like?
They would start off their dinner at a Kappou (Japanese-style) restaurant. The word "Kappou" is expressed in two kanji letters; one expresses raw ingredients such as sashimi and the other expresses cooked dishes. The two letters are put together to express dishes that use fresh ingredients that are served raw, broiled or cooked in various ways. Chefs understood the importance of the dinner meetings and always tried their best to improve their skills using a wide variety of ingredients so that their customers can enjoy and have a smooth meeting. Their effort resulted in the development of the Kappou restaurants. Although one may imagine Kyoto-style dishes when they think of Japanese food, actually the food culture of Osaka had developed before Kyoto because it was easier for Osaka to obtain fresh fish.
Wining and dining was held at homes as well. In these occasions, they would have chefs come and cook for them, or order catering from the restaurants. This is how "shidashi" (catering) services developed. Instead of going through all the trouble to cook for one's guests, it was easier to just be a host and leave all the cooking to the professionals, even if it was a little bit expensive. And, after all, the guests loved it. As long as the guests were happy, money isn't the issue; it was worth it and ended up being a lot cheaper in a way.
To eat delicious and good food may also mean to "use money the smart way".
* Take a break ? What is Ozashiki?
Osaka has "Ochaya-san" that are popular among men. At these places, they would reserve an "Ozashiki (private room)" where they would order caterings and enjoy their time with Maiko and Geiko's dance, Shamisen and Ji-uta (local songs). A soft and relaxing atmosphere fills the room when the classical Japanese dance and traditional Japanese music is being played. The way the tatami rooms are decorated and the different scenes according to the four seasons add a nice touch. The Japanese culture can be enjoyed not only through the food, but also from the eyes and ears.
As long as it meets the customer's needs, sometimes instead of fancy Kappou dishes, sushi, takoyaki or udon is served. Meeting the wishes of their customers is their top priority; nothing comes before that. Tanigawa Megumu is the young master of "Tanigawa", an Ochaya in Shimanouchi, Osaka. He works hard to spread the culture of the Ozashiki to the public.
http://blog.kansai.com/megumu" (in Japanese only)
